Hermes

Hermes is one of the most dominant fashion leaders with the equestrian influenced high fashion and one of the oldest. Hermes initially started off as a saddler company making leather goods, saddles and cavalry in 1837 by Thierry Hermès and has stayed strong even 173 years later. They are also one of the world’s last high-end companies that still remain independent by still owning 73.4% of the company. The first woman’s wear collection was first shown in Paris 1929.

Throughout the years Hermes have had many creative directors including Martin Margiela from Spring 1998 until Spring 2004, when he was then replaced by Jean Paul Gaultier and just recently who has stepped down from the position and Christophe Lemaire whom recently designer for Lacoste has taken over who made his first debut as creative director in Autumn/ Winter 2011. Equestrian style is at the heart of the house of Hermes, the metaphor of hacking jacket, Jodhpur, stock and riding boot is never far for from the fashion collection.

One of Hermes most iconic shows I want to talk about is Jean Paul Gaulter’s final collection for the company in Spring / Summer 2011. I thought this show was spectacular and truly inspiring. He did everything right from setting an electric atmosphere, by having the guests sitting in anticipation until the black curtains were unveiled to reveal a wood chip catwalk with dressage horses in the background while the show began with flamenco music with the models stomping down the catwalk thrashing whips wearing cordobes hats (traditional Spanish hats often used in riding and in bull rings). The audience was in awe with so much to look and the collection was amazing with leather bodices and tailored trousers and skirts inspired by a blacksmiths aprons. Inès de la Fressange, the 51-year-old mother of two and former model was the finally to Gaulter’s show when he ran down the runway and tackles her to give her a rose. An extravagant way for Gaulter to leave is mark on the Hermes brand, a show never to be forgotten. This is the show that made me look into equestrian fashion in more depth as well as my continuous interest with horses.

Looking back to previous Hermes Collections, equestrian isn’t always the main influence of the collection but generally sportswear is the inspiration. However JPG always manages to stay true to the brand by incorporating a classic Hermes print, sharp tailoring and the use of leather. However nowadays Hermes isn’t just known for its clothes they have famous leather handbags the Kelly and the Birkin, also the Hermes scarf, which is instantly recognisable by the bold prints and finally there saddlery. There newest innovation is there Talaris Saddle which is a state of the art saddle made of carbon, titanium and leather only weighing 1.5 kg. As Hermès artistic director Monsieur Pierre-Alexis Dumas said, "This is at the heart of the essence of Hermès, which is about marrying TRADITION and INNOVATION." Little to our knowledge Hermes is on top of their game in every aspect of their company and this family business is still thriving to succeed, by being innovators of fashion and equestrian. Hermes also sponsors some equestrian events mostly in America by donating prizes or sponsoring jumps/events.

Gaultier has used some historical references through his collection, mostly references of men’s 19th century riding wear and 19th century corsetry. He has used the corsetry influence in the leather wraps over a crisp white shirt, just to synch the waist in, in a boxy respect maybe also inspired by a blacksmiths apron. And Jean Paul Gualtier has used quite manly shapes in the blazers which looks inspired by a shooting costume jacket; however he has simplified it down. I think he has taken inspirations from all areas of equestrian by looking into the history of the Hermes brand and looking to what they are best at which is fine saddlers. But he has totally transformed this theme to something modern and chic.

Ashley J