Mare Machines Portfolio

In planning my final collection I consciously chose to challenge myself with pattern cutting: By designing intricate, sculptural designs, which contrast chic tailoring with flowing drapery. Tailoring my whole collection around innovative and challenging seaming details.

19^th century riding habits juxtaposed with the contemporary sport of endurance riding creates the basis of my inspiration while being loosely based around this quote from Black Beauty “Humans are enslaved like horses and horses are made into machines”. By incorporating land maps mixed with a Victorian era, my collection has a timeless hourglass silhouette. A luxury fashion collection using a range of lavish fabrics from woven tweed's to quality leathers. Semi-plain cloth’s with a daring colour palette that will help break up the collection while creating an exciting mix of textures and pattern. Creating a Sharp, Chic and confidant look.

I researched in depth the history of riding wear, by mainly focusing on the 19^th Century and women riding side-saddle. It was only at the turn of the 20th century women started wearing jodhpurs under their habits. For many years it was unacceptable for women to ride astride, even on top of the horse they were still obliged to look elegant and wear a corset under their riding costume. Their riding coats were not boned but still followed the fashions of that time where as their lower half; they used metres of material to emulate the look of a bustle. While researching I visited the Aberdeen Art gallery to look at their Riding habit Archives, which was very beneficial as I actually got the chance to inspect how these garments were constructed.  From doing so my silhouettes were inspired by the classic riding costume, incorporating the tailoring, panelling and clever pattern cutting they used.

I then want to juxtapose this idea of a classical rider by combining the idea with the inspiration of modern day endurance riding by incorporating OS maps and the bright colours they use through tack and safety wear. Endurance is all about your horse and personal achievements, your goal is to ride 160 kilometres in one day, which is crazy, you have to put a lot of work into your horse to get them to this level. When riding you have to feel comfortable yet practical.  Therefore I am going to combine this idea onto my collection by adding pockets, zips etc. so the garments are easy to come on and off. My collection may not be your typical riding wear attire but I want my garments to have these practical elements incorporated.

Thus leading to my graduate collection “Mare Machines” (Mare meaning female horse and Machine meaning we treat horses like machines) which is a Ready to Wear Collection for A/W 2012-2013. 

The Tweed Dress now Belongs to the University Archives.