Recently I went to the Aberdeen Art Gallery to view there equestrian costume archive. and viewed various riding attire from the 19th and 20th Century male and female. One of the most interesting pieces i viewed was a side saddle apron from 1880-1890, which was immaculatly made from suiting material, with a split up the side, and was shaped to go around the knee when in side saddle position. When in standing position the split pinned up round the back twice and then tied at the bottom, to conceal the women, however these would be worn with breeches.
There were also a selection of gents breeches all with exaggerated shaping, to get the movement that would be needed, either laced or buttoned up just below the knee, where there was also a button that you would clip your boots onto so the breeches didn't, ride up. one pair from the 60's had a "harry Hall" label on it which is a label still around today and i think that pair was the most modern as it was the only stretch material used. There was only one pair that was a pair of long jodhpurs, and there was various different fastening either up the centre front or at either side.
I also discovered in the Edwardian time if it was a complicated garment the dressmakers would put a cross stitch on the waistband indicating the Centre front.
The Selection of riding jackets they had was quite severely tailored with indications that a bustle might have been worn with it, generally short for safety reasons. With military/ decorative detailing made from heavy wool or tweed. Riding habit was specifically made for riding, the women would have a different outfit for walking. the riding attire was quite plain with detailing on the front of the coat or directed to the back of the skirt, with drapes, bustle inspired shapes, however impractical for the job, the stile was still incorporated.
Overall a very worth while experience.
If any one has any more information on equestrian costume from probably 19th Century please get in contact or recommend.
Ashley J
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