Something About Mary...

Mary Portas is an expert in the retail department, she has the knowledge every new business want to know! She is most famous for transforming Harvey Nichols and there world renowned window displays. Since then she opened a PR company Yellowdoor, which has been very successful and worked with many big brands. She went on to make a few TV series' transforming fashion boutiques, bakeries and even antique stores to a successful business. 

Now Mary has dove in head first with her whole reputation on the line to see if she really is as good as she says she is. Mary has launched her own brand "MARY" through House of Fraser. The Brand is aimed at women over forty and it is a lifestyle brand....a place where you cant only get staple pieces to keep you stylish through the seasons but you can also buy your coffee, stylish home accessories and maybe even a cheeky dildo (if she was allowed). She is a headstrong women who doesn't like the answer NO, with this in mind she has certainly pushed the boundaries of House of Fraser, she hasn't got everything she wanted, but just about!

From recently being involved in the David Nieper Competition, creating a 5 piece collection  for the over 50's.  I have realised that this market is in desperate need for some life to be injected into it .... I think it is great what Mary has done! Also loving the way she has used models that are the age she is targeting to, I think this makes all the difference!! And the women look chic and confident she doesn't make them look old she makes them look 10 years younger.  She has tapped into a great market while achieving a modern, contemporary shopping experience! A definite see the next time I am in London Town!

Ashley J 

Fash@G Presents...

Fash@G are hosting a Charity Fashion Show to raise money for the end of

year degree show with a silent auction held during the evening.

We would love to invite you to join us to see the works of our collection of talented students at this event.

Collections of work ranging from Coco Chanel themed garments, to locally sourced cashmere's from the Johnston's of Elgin brand. They are made from blood sweat and tears (literally). Pin pricks and all aside, these collections are a must see!

 The Auction: Info on the Auction to follow..

Tickets cost £10 and can be purchased from anyone in the Fash@G course. Or note your interest here and someone will contact you to give you more details. There are plenty car park spaces at the Thistle Hotel Altens, so parking is not a bother. Tickets can also be purchased on the door, however it would be best to secure one soon as they are going fast. The show is set to start at 8pm, doors open at 7pm so to get a good seat and view, turning up before hand would be ideal. Drinks will be given out on the door on your entry, and there will be a bar open also.

We look forward to seeing you there!

Ashley J

Ooh Fashion Show!

I Arrived in Edinburgh yesterday, greeted by a massive gust of freezing cold wind!! Winter has arrived people so get your woolys on!! I will be..... Any way I was in Edinburgh to attend  the Ooh Fashion Show held at the Green Room. Showcasing New and Established brands, designers, boutiques and millinery! 

I have got to admit I had No idea what to expect. First impressions the Venue was very nice and had a nice we red carpet outside. When we arrived the place was packed, we managed to get front row seats. There was a good mix of people, the atmosphere was good I think everyone was excited and apprehensive to see what was going to come next.

The Show was opened by the wonderful Jenivieve Berlin Millinery who showcased some amazing hats and headpieces in bright colours and beautiful feathers. This brand is young and edgy, somewhere you would go if you wanted to stand out from the crowd. I think all 3 hat designers [Jenivieve Berlin, Rene Walrus and Karen Ried Designs] that was at the show was the highlights of the night,  they were all completely different  but exciting. 

The whole show was very commercial I thought there would have been more new designers there However there were a few that stood out, for example 21st Century Kilts were a surprise as they take a whole new approach to suits and kilts. Making Amazing kilts from Pin stripe suiting or Checked suiting and using layering opposed to you usual tartans i thought they were very Chic!! Another one that stood out was "Those were the days" Vintage. As I'm not keen on Vintage myself I thought they did very well, by finding those little treasure coves of a find. Beautifully draped dresses, Bright fun Colours juxtaposed with the Cosy country look. Loved every outfit even the "Virgin Mary" Wedding dress which was a shocker to finish the collection. 

Overall the Show was a Great success, the show lasted a good 1hour and 30mins. Unfortunately we never seen the finally as we had to dash to catch out train back up to Aberdeen. 

Running all the way from the Green Room to the Train station in heels and the freezing cold I think I died a little inside .... however we did make it home safely to the beautifully freezing Aberdeen!

 Jenivieve Berlin Millinery 

 Karen Reid Designs

 Rene Walrus

 21st Century Kilts

"Those were the Days" Vintage

Hope you enjoy 

Ashley J

White Junk

So here we go again....ROUND TWO!

The STAG Duo are back with a vengeance with there second Pop- up shop "The White Junk Party" this event will be held at Korova, Bridge Street, Aberdeen between 1-6 pm on the 12th of November. It is £2 a ticket or £3 on the door and can be bought here or at one-up on Belmont Street. it is going to be quirky fashion event showcasing fashion designers, jewellery designers, vintage clothing and the most amazing cupcakes you have ever tasted made by yours truly Hannah Bakes Cakes!! So get your glad rags on and be ready to be style hunted by the in house photographer. This event will be the place to be before a great night out, where you can buy your one off out-fit and get you hair styled by Profile hair for the night ahead of you!

After the last pop up in August was such a success we cant wait for the next one as its going to be bigger and better. 

In August the Girls created the first fashion pop up shop in Aberdeen, showcasing fashion designers Jaime CJ, Laura Sherriffs and STAG's baby sister Fawned Of...which by the way I still want my mustard trousers pleaaaase... . Also on the list of ones to watch are Kiss My Kunst a fantastic t-shirt and accessory designers along with textile brand Feet and Tea mothered by Alison Bell. 

STAG stands for Scottish talent and graduates so the event is also used to promote recent graduates, so Stag see this as an opertunity to exhibit the recent works from Grays School of Art fashion graduates. The collection exhibited below is made by the lovely Carolyn Edmonson, inspired by Scottish fishwives. I wonder who will be next to show at the pop up shop....just keep thinking White!! 

Be there or be Square!!

Ashley J

Fashion Videos

So here we go, I'm not you typical person who trails through you tube looking for random videos, but here is a few videos I have found that I just love. the Lanvin advertisements have got to be my all time favourites, they just make me laugh. Some more videos similar but just as good are done by Miu Miu and Prada. They all a have there own style and essence but I just think they are so cleverly done and they make you watch to find out what's going to happen next. I hope you enjoy!!

Ashley J

Jen Collee

"Midnight"

"Romeo"

"Silver II"

"Aquilla"

Jen Collee gained her BA (Hons) in Fine Art at Glasgow School of Art in 1999 and has since exhibited her work across the United Kingdom. 

 She currently works from her Edinburgh studio and regularly contributes to the Visual Arts Scotland exhibition at the Royal Scottish Academy and shows her work at both the Glasgow Art Fair and Edinburgh Festival. Her paintings, of animals and horses in particular, are both dynamic and sympathetic, reflecting the presence and character of the subject with an understanding eye and deft technical skill. Her equine paintings are reminiscent of the painting of George Stubbs and Richard Stone Reeves and she shares their enthusiasm for the subject. Jen is a keen horsewoman and her passion and knowledge is evident in her work. 

http://www.flaubertgallery.com/

She is currently exhibiting at Flaubert Gallery in Edinburgh. So hopefully if I get the chance to go down to Edinburgh to have a look. As at a first glance her painting look amazing very fee and loose and you can feel the drama and atmosphere from the painting. 


Featured in the January 2011 edition, VOGUE Magazine said: "Jen Collee's New large scale equine paintings, in particular, are both dynamic and sympathetic, reflecting the presence and character of the subject, with and understanding eye and deft technical skill" and prompted new enquiries and sales to clients in the UK, Europe and the USA.

"Acteon" 

Ashley J

Glen Moore

'Rutting Stags'  Metallic acrylic on canvas, 122cm x 91cm

Glen Moore is another Artist that is exhibiting at the Flaubert Gallery in Edinburgh.

Andrew Glencairn Moore

Glen was born in Paisley in 1966 and has spent a significant amount of his life immersed in the Scotch whisky industry.A self taught artist who has had brief spells living on the Island of Skye and Islay, now lives with his wife Louise in a converted Steading on a sheep farm in the Campsie Glen, North of Glasgow.Much of Glen’s inspiration comes from the familiar everyday sights that surround him.Glen works in both oils and metallic acrylics. 

'Scratch That Itch' Metallic acrylic on canvas 122cm X 122cm

"Horsepower" Metallic acrylic on canvas 122cm X 122cm

 'Horsepower II' Metallic acrylic on canvas, 122cm x 122cm

Ashley J

Hermes

Hermes is one of the most dominant fashion leaders with the equestrian influenced high fashion and one of the oldest. Hermes initially started off as a saddler company making leather goods, saddles and cavalry in 1837 by Thierry Hermès and has stayed strong even 173 years later. They are also one of the world’s last high-end companies that still remain independent by still owning 73.4% of the company. The first woman’s wear collection was first shown in Paris 1929.

Throughout the years Hermes have had many creative directors including Martin Margiela from Spring 1998 until Spring 2004, when he was then replaced by Jean Paul Gaultier and just recently who has stepped down from the position and Christophe Lemaire whom recently designer for Lacoste has taken over who made his first debut as creative director in Autumn/ Winter 2011. Equestrian style is at the heart of the house of Hermes, the metaphor of hacking jacket, Jodhpur, stock and riding boot is never far for from the fashion collection.

One of Hermes most iconic shows I want to talk about is Jean Paul Gaulter’s final collection for the company in Spring / Summer 2011. I thought this show was spectacular and truly inspiring. He did everything right from setting an electric atmosphere, by having the guests sitting in anticipation until the black curtains were unveiled to reveal a wood chip catwalk with dressage horses in the background while the show began with flamenco music with the models stomping down the catwalk thrashing whips wearing cordobes hats (traditional Spanish hats often used in riding and in bull rings). The audience was in awe with so much to look and the collection was amazing with leather bodices and tailored trousers and skirts inspired by a blacksmiths aprons. Inès de la Fressange, the 51-year-old mother of two and former model was the finally to Gaulter’s show when he ran down the runway and tackles her to give her a rose. An extravagant way for Gaulter to leave is mark on the Hermes brand, a show never to be forgotten. This is the show that made me look into equestrian fashion in more depth as well as my continuous interest with horses.

Looking back to previous Hermes Collections, equestrian isn’t always the main influence of the collection but generally sportswear is the inspiration. However JPG always manages to stay true to the brand by incorporating a classic Hermes print, sharp tailoring and the use of leather. However nowadays Hermes isn’t just known for its clothes they have famous leather handbags the Kelly and the Birkin, also the Hermes scarf, which is instantly recognisable by the bold prints and finally there saddlery. There newest innovation is there Talaris Saddle which is a state of the art saddle made of carbon, titanium and leather only weighing 1.5 kg. As Hermès artistic director Monsieur Pierre-Alexis Dumas said, "This is at the heart of the essence of Hermès, which is about marrying TRADITION and INNOVATION." Little to our knowledge Hermes is on top of their game in every aspect of their company and this family business is still thriving to succeed, by being innovators of fashion and equestrian. Hermes also sponsors some equestrian events mostly in America by donating prizes or sponsoring jumps/events.

Gaultier has used some historical references through his collection, mostly references of men’s 19th century riding wear and 19th century corsetry. He has used the corsetry influence in the leather wraps over a crisp white shirt, just to synch the waist in, in a boxy respect maybe also inspired by a blacksmiths apron. And Jean Paul Gualtier has used quite manly shapes in the blazers which looks inspired by a shooting costume jacket; however he has simplified it down. I think he has taken inspirations from all areas of equestrian by looking into the history of the Hermes brand and looking to what they are best at which is fine saddlers. But he has totally transformed this theme to something modern and chic.

Ashley J

Dior Does Equestrian

One designer that takes a strong influence from historical references is John Galliano for Dior. He did an equestrian collection in autumn/winter 2010-11 where you can see there is a strong influence’s from 19^th century riding wear.

However he has contrasted this equestrian theme with “The Libertine” film featuring Johnny Depp. Where he had laser cut leather ruffled coats and capes contrasted with chiffon flowing dresses printed in 18^th Century flowers the collection is typically exaggerated by Galliano but looks exquisite. It has the luxe that equestrian has. He also used the equestrian theme for his spring couture collection 2010 for Dior. Which was undeniable  inspired by 19^th century side saddle turnout where he has used the used some of the shapes and silhouettes with his use of long skirts which are shorter/ gathered up at the back, tailored jackets and crisp blouses. Said by Vogue : “...featuring blood red fitted jackets with big peplums over tweed side saddle hunting skirts and accessorised with over-sized snoods, veils, top hats and riding crops. Models were smothered in porcelain white make-up painted with plump red lips, the wisps of white in their gravity-defying fringes giving them the look of an austere ringmaster – as much in control as in demand.”  John Galliano is someone that has no equestrian background yet he pulls it off so well.

Ashley J

Gucci

[Images from Gucci's most recent show: A/W 2011. Designed by Frida Giannini. using bold vibrant colours with a 1970's feel throughout and furs sourced from Saga Furs.] 

Another brand that has strong equestrian connotations is Gucci, a brand that is celebrating their 90^th birthday this year. Since starting as a leather goods company in 1921 in Florence, Italy; it became an instant hit with the equestrian elite because of the iconic red and green stripes, derived from the saddlers and horse bit hard ware. And 1960 was when the hand bags with the snaffle bit decoration were first introduced.

Gucci doesn’t have a specific collection inspired by equestrian per say, they have a more consistent influence, to keep the companies roots alive. Guccio Gucci the founder of Gucci established the Gucci red and green stripe, the interlocking G’s and the use of horse bits though out the collection. In 1994 Tom Ford was appointed the creative director of Gucci and was in charge of RTW, merchandising and advertising. Since then he has rebranded the company to this sexy Gucci girl. Gucci has a distinctive style; it is exquisite Italian garments that have a chic finesse about them, there in nothing overly designed in the collection everything is tight fitting, flesh showing and a combination of fabrics, one of which is fur. Fur is always popular in a Gucci show. Tom Ford had strong support from Dominico De Sole, where they maintained the company’s history while updating the Gucci Trademarks. However in April 2004 the Ford and De Sole’s contracts ran out and Fridi Giannini was appointed the new Creative director.

Although Gucci doesn’t have obvious link with equestrian they support a lot of equestrian event, by sponsorship and have made their own limited edition equestrian range to sponsor various riders. Charlotte Casiraghi is one of them whom Gucci designed her and her show jumping team’s uniforms. After the company has had a 20 year break in the equestrian sponsorship. Charlotte, who is something of a thoroughbred herself (her mother is Caroline, Princess of Hanover, and her grandmother was Grace Kelly) enthused about the collection, which includes polo shirts and a leather cap, said “I am thrilled to be working with Gucci and especially happy to be playing a part in their timely return to the equestrian world. I would like to make a special thank you to Frida Giannini and her team for the truly beautiful designs.” Giannini was thrilled at the chance to create a horsey range as she is an enthusiastic rider herself.

Since December 2009 Gucci has sponsored the European Equestrian Masters in Paris. Christophe Ameeuw, General Manager of EEM, said, “The Paris Masters is one of the world's most important equestrian occasions, it is therefore very fitting that we have one of the world's most prestigious brands as the title sponsor. Gucci's heritage and values are the perfect complement”.

Ashley J

Equestrian Costume

 

Recently I went to the Aberdeen Art Gallery to view there equestrian costume archive. and viewed various riding attire from the 19th and 20th Century male and female. One of the most interesting pieces i viewed was a side saddle apron from 1880-1890, which was immaculatly made from suiting material, with a split up the side, and was shaped to go around the knee when in side saddle position. When in standing position the split pinned up round the back twice and then tied at the bottom, to conceal the women, however these would be worn with breeches.

There were also a selection of gents breeches all with exaggerated shaping, to get the movement that would be needed, either laced or buttoned up just below the knee, where there was also a button that you would clip your boots onto so the breeches didn't, ride up. one pair from the 60's had a "harry Hall" label on it which is a label still around today and i think that pair was the most modern as it was the only stretch material used. There was only one pair that was a pair of long jodhpurs, and there was various different fastening either up the centre front or at either side.

I also discovered in the Edwardian time if it was a complicated garment the dressmakers would put a cross stitch on the waistband indicating the Centre front.

The Selection of riding jackets they had was quite severely tailored with indications that a bustle might have been worn with it, generally short for safety reasons. With military/ decorative detailing made from heavy wool or tweed. Riding habit was specifically made for riding, the women would have a different outfit for walking. the riding attire was quite plain with detailing on the front of the coat or directed to the back of the skirt, with drapes, bustle inspired shapes, however impractical for the job, the stile was still incorporated.

Overall a very worth while experience.

If any one has any more information on equestrian costume from probably 19th Century  please get in contact or recommend.   

Ashley J