Dior Does Equestrian

One designer that takes a strong influence from historical references is John Galliano for Dior. He did an equestrian collection in autumn/winter 2010-11 where you can see there is a strong influence’s from 19^th century riding wear.

However he has contrasted this equestrian theme with “The Libertine” film featuring Johnny Depp. Where he had laser cut leather ruffled coats and capes contrasted with chiffon flowing dresses printed in 18^th Century flowers the collection is typically exaggerated by Galliano but looks exquisite. It has the luxe that equestrian has. He also used the equestrian theme for his spring couture collection 2010 for Dior. Which was undeniable  inspired by 19^th century side saddle turnout where he has used the used some of the shapes and silhouettes with his use of long skirts which are shorter/ gathered up at the back, tailored jackets and crisp blouses. Said by Vogue : “...featuring blood red fitted jackets with big peplums over tweed side saddle hunting skirts and accessorised with over-sized snoods, veils, top hats and riding crops. Models were smothered in porcelain white make-up painted with plump red lips, the wisps of white in their gravity-defying fringes giving them the look of an austere ringmaster – as much in control as in demand.”  John Galliano is someone that has no equestrian background yet he pulls it off so well.

Ashley J

Gucci

[Images from Gucci's most recent show: A/W 2011. Designed by Frida Giannini. using bold vibrant colours with a 1970's feel throughout and furs sourced from Saga Furs.] 

Another brand that has strong equestrian connotations is Gucci, a brand that is celebrating their 90^th birthday this year. Since starting as a leather goods company in 1921 in Florence, Italy; it became an instant hit with the equestrian elite because of the iconic red and green stripes, derived from the saddlers and horse bit hard ware. And 1960 was when the hand bags with the snaffle bit decoration were first introduced.

Gucci doesn’t have a specific collection inspired by equestrian per say, they have a more consistent influence, to keep the companies roots alive. Guccio Gucci the founder of Gucci established the Gucci red and green stripe, the interlocking G’s and the use of horse bits though out the collection. In 1994 Tom Ford was appointed the creative director of Gucci and was in charge of RTW, merchandising and advertising. Since then he has rebranded the company to this sexy Gucci girl. Gucci has a distinctive style; it is exquisite Italian garments that have a chic finesse about them, there in nothing overly designed in the collection everything is tight fitting, flesh showing and a combination of fabrics, one of which is fur. Fur is always popular in a Gucci show. Tom Ford had strong support from Dominico De Sole, where they maintained the company’s history while updating the Gucci Trademarks. However in April 2004 the Ford and De Sole’s contracts ran out and Fridi Giannini was appointed the new Creative director.

Although Gucci doesn’t have obvious link with equestrian they support a lot of equestrian event, by sponsorship and have made their own limited edition equestrian range to sponsor various riders. Charlotte Casiraghi is one of them whom Gucci designed her and her show jumping team’s uniforms. After the company has had a 20 year break in the equestrian sponsorship. Charlotte, who is something of a thoroughbred herself (her mother is Caroline, Princess of Hanover, and her grandmother was Grace Kelly) enthused about the collection, which includes polo shirts and a leather cap, said “I am thrilled to be working with Gucci and especially happy to be playing a part in their timely return to the equestrian world. I would like to make a special thank you to Frida Giannini and her team for the truly beautiful designs.” Giannini was thrilled at the chance to create a horsey range as she is an enthusiastic rider herself.

Since December 2009 Gucci has sponsored the European Equestrian Masters in Paris. Christophe Ameeuw, General Manager of EEM, said, “The Paris Masters is one of the world's most important equestrian occasions, it is therefore very fitting that we have one of the world's most prestigious brands as the title sponsor. Gucci's heritage and values are the perfect complement”.

Ashley J

Equestrian Costume

 

Recently I went to the Aberdeen Art Gallery to view there equestrian costume archive. and viewed various riding attire from the 19th and 20th Century male and female. One of the most interesting pieces i viewed was a side saddle apron from 1880-1890, which was immaculatly made from suiting material, with a split up the side, and was shaped to go around the knee when in side saddle position. When in standing position the split pinned up round the back twice and then tied at the bottom, to conceal the women, however these would be worn with breeches.

There were also a selection of gents breeches all with exaggerated shaping, to get the movement that would be needed, either laced or buttoned up just below the knee, where there was also a button that you would clip your boots onto so the breeches didn't, ride up. one pair from the 60's had a "harry Hall" label on it which is a label still around today and i think that pair was the most modern as it was the only stretch material used. There was only one pair that was a pair of long jodhpurs, and there was various different fastening either up the centre front or at either side.

I also discovered in the Edwardian time if it was a complicated garment the dressmakers would put a cross stitch on the waistband indicating the Centre front.

The Selection of riding jackets they had was quite severely tailored with indications that a bustle might have been worn with it, generally short for safety reasons. With military/ decorative detailing made from heavy wool or tweed. Riding habit was specifically made for riding, the women would have a different outfit for walking. the riding attire was quite plain with detailing on the front of the coat or directed to the back of the skirt, with drapes, bustle inspired shapes, however impractical for the job, the stile was still incorporated.

Overall a very worth while experience.

If any one has any more information on equestrian costume from probably 19th Century  please get in contact or recommend.   

Ashley J

S.T.A.G Pop Up Shop

The 20th of August Aberdeen seen its First ever Pop shop Showcasing the Scottish Talent and Graduates [S.T.A.G] of Aberdeen. It was a great event where you could listen to some good music, get your hair and nails done, have a wee Cheeky STAG cocktail and most of all SHOP!!. The Event was held at Korova, Bridge Street. We seen Fashion Designers Carolyn Edmonson, Jaime CJ, Laura Sherriffs, Fawned of.. there was vintage stalls Haggard Case, The closet and Ruby and the Dream of Horses, Fantastic Photographer Sam Copeland [Samcopeland.co.uk] Textile designer Alison bell and the divine Hannah Bakes Cakes the best cake i have ever had, and last but not least Kiss my Kunst t-shirt print designers and much more. A Day not to have been missed.

Check them out at: 

http://stagstudio.blogspot.com/

http://www.facebook.com/ScottishTalentandGraduates

And don't Forget to go along to there next event on the 12th of November THE WHITE JUNK PARTY will be held at Korova club on bridge street Aberdeen between 1-6pm. Which will be showcasing more New fashion and jewellery Designers from Aberdeen and Surrounding. so get your glad rags on to try and get style hunted and get your ticket bought now!!

Ashley J

The Laura and Jamie Show

So this last few weeks have seen the best of Aberdeen's fashions. First of all two students hosted there first joint fashion show at Musa Bridge Street "The Laura and Jaime show" which showcased their personal Jaime Cj collection called "Dead on the Sidewalk" and a collection by Laura Sherriffs. there was also an exhibition of the New Zealand Jewellery Designer Nick Von K, jewellery inspired but skulls and animal carcases. 

check out there blogs!

http://lapetiteplumes.blogspot.com/

http://www.jaimecj.blogspot.com/

Ashley J

The Meryl Collection

David Nieper  is a Derbyshire based fashion house and is a highly prized and fought for competition which aims to find the best student fashion designer. I had to design a collection for the over 50's market, which had to ooze quality. A 5 piece collection made for £150 to flatter the middle aged body but be able to be bought online and postal order so it couldn't be too complicated or fitted. 

The Meryl collection.

My collection was inspired by the award winning actress Meryl Streep. I have a Secret obsession with her film. so I thought it was the obvious choice to use her as my muse. She is successful, chic, and I think my clients would desire to be like her or at least be as stylish as her. She often attends red carpet events but instead of wearing the biggest designer of that time she wears what suits her body often covering her arms, wearing dresses which show off her waist and her best bits. But she isn't afraid to be noticed  while being comfortable at the same time. 

I tried to make my collection trend aware while also being realistic for the mature woman. I used bold printed fabrics and quality fabrics. I got selected from my class to be put forward for the David Nieper Award, I have now won the Award and a £250 cash Prize and will be fast tracked to the final. 

Follow me to see what happens next or Check out the Website http://dnaf.wordpress.slightlydifferent.net/archives/83

Ashley J

Meryl Streep

Meryl Streep at the age of 62, is considered one of the worlds best actress. Her career is booming receiving more roles than when she first started. Streep has received an astonishing 16 Academy Award nominations, winning two, and 25 Golden Globe nominations, winning seven, more nominations than any other actor in the history of either award. Her work has also earned her two Emmy Awards, two Screen Actors Guild Awards, a Cannes Film Festival award, four New York Film Critics Circle Awards, five Grammy Award nominations, a BAFTA award, an Australian Film Institute Award and a Tony Award nomination, amongst others. She was awarded the American Film Institute's Lifetime Achievement Award in 2004.

Has been featured in some in hundereds of films, some of my favourates areThe Devil Wears Prada, Mamma Mia!, Music of the Heart, Julie and Julia and Prime. she is so well known she has even had a day dedicated to her Meryl Streep Day : May 27th of each year.

Although at the age of 62 she still looks great i only hope that I can look like this when im that age. And jump like this, i dont even think i can do that now..

She has also made it to the Cover of the Rolling Stones Magazine

Ashley J